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Pok Pok ▶︎
Thai street food in a fun setting; not the usual noodle+sauce thing you find most places. Order something you haven't had before; if you're fussy, just get the wings. Also consider their bar across the street, Whiskey Soda Lounge, and their ultra-casual spot, Pok Pok Wing. There's a new location in the Northwest, and guess what: it takes reservations.
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Kachka ▶︎
When was the last time you had your mind blown by Russian food? Deceptively simple, cold appetizers, rooted in home cooking, yet served with skill and fuss one expects from French or Japanese cuisine? Presented in a fun, modern, youthful space? Kachka is all that, and more. Get the zakuski flight and some pelmeni, order vodka and pickle juice to drink. Having grown up on this food, I still found Kachka a revelation.
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Apizza Scholls ▶︎
The best pizza I've ever had, anywhere. Get the margherita or the tartufo bianco. (The caesar salad isn't half bad, either.) Show up by 5 PM or expect a one-hour wait; parties of 1 or 2 may have more luck. Comfy waiting area, drinks served. (Pssst—they also serve brunch at 11:30 on the weekend now, and the crowds don't know it yet.)
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Grassa ▶︎
Casual, modern, punky pasta—the space is modern, the attitude is relaxed, but the food is both creative and masterfully executed. Everything is good: dishes as simple as aglio e olio, or as funky as squid-ink bucatini with smoked tomato, chorizo verde, and clams. If you like pasta, you'll like Grassa.
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Bollywood Theater ▶︎
Indian street food in a fun, bar-like space. Casual and cheap, yet serving lots of diverse food you won't find at many Indian spots in town. If you get one thing, make it the kati roll; but don't get one thing, get eight.
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Nong's Khao Man Gai ▶︎
This one-dish spot started out as a cart, and in the Portland tradition, it blew up quickly. You'll be hearing about Nong's cooking nationally pretty soon. Order the signature chicken-and-rice dish, deck it out with bonus fried chicken skin and liver, and marvel at the simple but unforgettable experience.
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Mi Mero Mole ▶︎
"Tacos de guisado"—basically, Mexican stews. Best in taco form or as a plate with rice & beans. Don't miss the plantains and the chips. Order based on the flavors ("smoky", "dark", "creamy") not the protein (no "chicken burrito"). My regular order: smoked lamb in mole, rajas con crema, meatballs.
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Bless Your Heart Burgers ▶︎
I like many kinds of burgers, but if I had to pick one style to eat often, it would be the standard American diner hamburger: thin, loose patty; American cheese; light toppings; fluffy bun. I'll save the 6"-tall, medium-rare bistro burgers for date night. At lunchtime, I like Bless Your Heart's perfectly done little fast-food guys, complete with McD-style fries. Whether you get the regular burger or the NC-style one (with meaty chili and cole slaw), it's americana on a bun. USA! USA!
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Hà VL ▶︎
There's a reason Portland's top chefs have been gathering at place every morning for over a decade: it's unlike anything else. Set in a tiny, kitschy-charming space, Ha VL serves the best Vietnamese soups you're likely to find anywhere, without an ounce of pretension. The menu changes daily, so check my unofficial soup status webpage. (My favorite? Wednesday's chicken curry. Not in a soup mood? Get the meatball sandwich plate.) While you could go for lunch—and hope they haven't sold out—the power move is to do breakfast, order a "strong" coffee, and trip your head out for the rest of the day.
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Broder ▶︎
Swedish breakfast executed perfectly, with just enough local flare to make it interesting. Everything is cute and delicious. If you're going to wait in line for breakfast in Portland, wait here. (The new, NE location is larger, and possibly less busy.)
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Mae ▶︎
This list focuses on places that are easy to recommend; no huge lines or fancy dining rooms. Mae is an exception. It is, let's make this clear, NOT a restaurant, but an occasional pop-up. I've decided to include it here because the quality of chef Maya Lovelace's "southern appalachian" food is rule-bending in itself. She serves, at a meal, the best cornbread, fried chicken, and salads I've ever eaten. Sign up for the mailing list and hope you get in.
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Hat Yai ▶︎
Southern Thai food, with strong Malaysian influences—this place was essentially tailored precisely to my needs and cravings. You know how there's never enough sauce left over in a bowl of curry after you've eaten the protein chunks? Hat Yai will serve you fried chicken, a bowl of nothing BUT curry sauce, and addictive roti (buttery flatbread) to dip in. Whatever you get, make sure curry & roti are part of the combo.
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Boke Bowl ▶︎
A casual, lightweight Momofuku-inspired ramen joint. The ramen is good, the buns are better, the fried chicken is stellar, the roasted-vegetable salad unfairly tasty. Lots of fun little sides. Good for groups, good for kids.
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Tasty'n'Alder ▶︎
How do you describe the cuisine served here? "Pangean", I suppose. They pick and choose from Spanish, Indonesian, North African, Indian, Brazilian, and Scandinavian traditions, putting together a surprisingly cohesive menus that combines local ingredients with international spices and techniques. If you're in the Northeast, check out their original restaurant, Tasty'n'Sons. (The Alder location is a little less crowded.)
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Tusk ▶︎
Vegetables, middle-eastern influences, and a super fun aesthetic: all bright colors, lots of light, and a modern, youthful vibe. Tusk both elevates foods—like their wonderful hummus, usually garnished with millions of herbs and nuts—and relaxes their attitude about the dining environment. It looks more like an ice cream spot than what it is behind the scenes: a restaurant devoted to the best vegetables they can find or grow, served with the utmost care. Delicious and cool in the cool-kid way.
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Güero ▶︎
There's a sandwich renaissance in America. We now stuff them not with deli meats and cheeses, but with complex, long-cooked stews, carefully balancing acidity and crunch. This has given new attention to possibly the greatest sandwich: the wonderful Mexican torta. Güero executes theirs beautifully, packing a dozen flavors into each tightly constructed sandwich on perfect telera and bolillo rolls. I've loved their food since they were a small cart—go see them at their cute new restaurant.
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Pinolo Gelato ▶︎
How good can ice cream get before you have to desperately attempt to improve it with elaborate sprinkles, syrups, cookies and crisps? Does it get better as the number of ingredients in it increases? Pinolo, a very traditional Italian gelateria, sticks to simple, pure flavors: chocolate, pistachio, hazelnut, or the milky-simple fior di latte, plainer than "plain vanilla". But their best stuff might be the amazing sorbettos, made with seasonal berries, stone fruit, apples, or whatever is currently ripe. No gimmicks, no overhtinking—this is ice cream that tastes like what it says it is, and it's miles ahead of any other in Portland.